A Good Diet...
They'll eat just about anything that will fit in their mouth! They are omnivores, that is, they'll eat both plants and animals. Below I will list some foods that are, to the best of my knowledge, considered good for them. If you want to read a list of what I consider the junk food and worse, go here.

Also, if you use a substrate they can ingest, place their food on a dish in a place where that is less likely to happen.

The Staple Greens:

• Collard Greens
• Turnip Greens
• Dandelion Greens and Flowers

The Secondary Greens and Vegi's:

• Mustard Greens and Flowers
• Beet Greens
• Cress
• Endive
• Arugula
• Clover Leaves and Flowers
• Chicory
• Parsley
• Bean Sprouts
• Sunflower Seedlings
• Bok Choy
• Peas
• Snow Peas
• Green Beans
• Zucchini
• Squash
• Corn (Cooked)
• Parsnip (Shredded)
• Carrots (Shredded)
• Daisy Flower
• Carnations
• Ice Plant
• Red Leaf Lettuce and
• Green Leaf Lettuce (this is the name)
• Boston and Butterhead Lettuce
• Hibiscus Flowers (poisonous to some creatures)

Organic: It's always the best choice because it should be free of the chemicals that can harm something as small as your dragon. Make sure anything you collect from outside is free of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Flowers from a store's floral department have usually been soaking in chemical solutions during some part of their life, I'd avoid them.

Fruit: They do love it but, it can cause runny stool; which can lead to an aggravated digestive system and or dehydration. Only give them a little at a time, at least at first, until their bodies can get more use to it. Avoid fruits high in citrus and limit the amount of berries.

Food Size: All food should fit within the space between their eyes. Non-leafy vegetables and fruits should be shredded for adult dragons, the same goes for babies but even leafy vegi's should be diced up.

(feeder size pic)

Supplements: At least once a week you should dust your dragons food with vitamins. More for babies, less for adults as they get older. There are usually dosage directions on the containers. You should purchase high quality supplements with little filler. You will need one that has Calcium and vitamin D3. The brand below is excellent.

Prey:
I believe crickets are really the best out of what's readily available. They're like nice lean meat. Gut load them before feeding; this means giving them special food that contains vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to your dragon. Crickets that are not fed and hydrated will not be as nutritious for your dragon as ones that are. Get your money's worth out of the bugs by doing this. Crickets that have open water in their cage often die and become very stinky. Using cricket "water" cubes and gel help cut down on these losses and helps keep them from spreading disease to your dragon. A specially designed cricket enclosure will also help. If you have more than one or two dragons, you might consider breeding your own prey. You can search for help on how to do this elsewhere on the internet.

Here is an image of some handy cricket keeping products that you can find at about any pet supply store. I love the Kricket Keeper. It really cut down on the number of crickets I would loose. The only thing you will need to do is put some tape in the gaps right above the removable tubes. The holes are there to support flaps to cover the tube holes, but they're just large enough for crickets to escape from. Be sure to buy a good product to gut load your crickets with.

Water, Misting, Bathing: Coming Soon!

(bath pic)

Go here to read more about why other types of food, like meal worms, spinach, and pinky mice, are not listed in this section.

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